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Exploring on Two Wheels



Summer 1997





Sometimes the best plan is not having much of a plan



Early in my adult life, my career gave me enough vacation time to reserve one full week for unplanned fun. In 1997, I could have traveled anywhere my dreams guided me. I was young and single, independent and filled with a desire to explore.


I chose Montana.


Pick up a tourism guidebook for Montana and you'll find an almost exclusive focus on the west side of the state. Snowcapped mountains, crystal clear lakes and rivers, and lush green forests are leveraged to lure travel dollars to Big Sky Country. Want to ski Glacier National Park? Head west. Ride a mountain bike down Mount Helena? Left side of the map.


I had set my sights on the other side of the state, where tourists pass through or fly over using the quickest possible means. If the words There's nothing there are spoken or written of a place, it's on my list. Why? Because I came from Nothing's There.


I was thus inspired to drive to Eastern Montana because of a book called Bad Land by Jonathan Raban. The description of the land was nothing short of amazing, considering there's not much to see except cattle and endless miles of dirt roads. The author wrote of a town originally called Ismay, which later changed its name to "Joe" in hopes of attracting thousands of Joe Montana football fans to an annual celebration. The real Joe Montana didn't make it to the festivities and the town, already relegated to a small dot on the most detailed of maps, faded into obscurity. That is, until Mr. Raban decided to write a book.


The Montana trip would center around my beloved Suzuki SP200 motorcycle. This was a "dual-sport" motorcycle, marketed as legal to ride on streets and capable of light off-road trails. In reality, the SP200 was a dirt road motorcycle, and the eastern part of Montana had a lot of dirt roads. I had no intention of exploring those roads in the confines of an automobile, so the SP200 was tasked with showing me the "real" Montana. I didn't want the touristy part built for revenue generation. My sights were set on places inhabited mainly by those who lived and worked there. Wide open space was my game. The SP200, with a fuel tank large enough for a 200-mile range, was my ticket inside.


The drive to Miles City, once I passed Minneapolis, was completely new. I'd never set foot in North Dakota or any place within Montana. After Fargo, I avoided interstate highways. I wanted to see "real" things like wheat cutting crews and coal mining machines and haybales decorated and shaped like humans. I preferred the things built for the people who were vested in the towns and farms along the way. This was more than just a road trip to Miles City.





Scenes from north dakota





State highways are interesting.



Serious mailboxes in North Dakota



Happy hay bales near Golden Valley



Indian Head Mine near Zap





Miles city



Two days after leaving Illinois, I checked into a Motel 6 in Miles City with no reservation. On a Sunday night, the motel had plenty of rooms. I phoned my parents to tell them where I was, just in case. They asked what I would do in Eastern Montana. I explained that I wasn't sure, but I definitely would visit Joe, Montana. And I'd be putting quite a few miles on my motorcycle. My mother, unfamiliar with sports and certainly unaware of the Joe Montana hall of fame football player, understood the logic of none of this. "When will you be home?" was all she wanted to know. ​


The next day, I rose early and prepared the SP200 for its long journey to the town of Joe, 60 miles east. Earlier in the summer, while considering this trip, I briefly entertained the idea of riding the little motorcycle all the way to Miles City. Then I remembered how my body felt after 100 mile excursions through Illinois backroads. The bike would get its own ride to Montana in the back of my pickup truck. For extra traction on dirt roads, the SP200 received a used, full knobby from my other motorcycle, an off-road race bike. The engine oil was fresh, the air filter was clean, and the red plastic shined in the bright morning sun. I was ready to ride.



The road to joe



From Miles city, a car could have done it in about an hour. Took me the whole morning.



Range country



I could not have been more excited to ride endless dirt roads on my Suzuki SP200 motorcycle. The Jonathan Raban book discussed the challenge of farming this land when the Montana Homestead Act offered free 160-acre parcels to settlers (subject to various conditions). In 1909, the homestead act increased the land gifts to 320 acres, due to limited interest in attempting to grow anything on only 160 acres, under such dry, rough conditions.



Powder River bridge at Mizpah/Trail Creek Road



This Custer County bridge was built in 1926 and is still open to traffic. According to bridgehunter.com, the total length is 455 feet and is made of three spans. Twenty years later, photos on bridgehunter.com show the road surface has been paved and the old iron guardrails were replaced with more modern versions.



Montana signpost



I was fascinated by these signs. Where I grew up, if you wanted to locate someone in the country, you asked a person and they gave you bad directions. Here, signposts pointed to the people. The distances between those people were vast. This signpost was 40 miles from Ismay, a/k/a Joe.



Big sky



Odd as it may seem to normal people, this was heaven to me. I loved the open spaces. And I loved that motorcycle.



Mission accomplished





Welcome to Joe. Or ismay.



The town of Ismay unofficially changed its name after a Kansas City radio station launched a stunt to convince a Montana town to rename itself Joe. Ismay took the bait, apparently believing this would lead to a Field of Dreams style mecca for Joe Montana fans. The town really didn't have much to lose and scaled back its dreams a bit, aiming simply to raise money for the volunteer fire department.


It worked.


Eight years later the town had raised enough money to buy a new fire truck. The money kept flowing, although it remains unclear how, and the town was able to construct a community building (the Joe Montana Center, naturally) with a fire station. In 1997, however, all of this had yet to arrive. I was familiar with towns like Ismay from my upbringing in rural Illinois, including my hometown of Stockland. The only thing missing here was a mobile home serving as a farmers cafe.


Ismay was, and still is, a place where a Google Maps car would never visit. Business and industry, if any existed when I visited, was centered around the two century-old grain elevators along the BNSF railroad. Like many rural towns, this one only existed because a railroad created it and the U.S. Government enticed people to move there under the promise of free land. All anyone had to do was figure out how to farm it, and the land was theirs.


Exploration of Ismay took approximately ten minutes, nine of which were spent at a long-defunct church where the locals had enshrined it with a tribute to the legendary Joe Montana. In what surely took a solid 15 minutes to complete, the locals summarized, in two colors of paint on an exterior wall, Joe's career at Notre Dame and the San Francisco 49'ers.


I had completed my goal: Drive for two days and ride 80 miles over dirt roads on a motorcycle to see a Joe Montana shrine in a town of 28 humans (purportedly). I was overjoyed.


Seriously, I'm not joking.



ismay or joe, your choice





All photos were taken on a 35mm film camera, a hand-me-down from my mother.



welcome





This sign was located at the northeast corner of US 12 and Ismay Road in Custer County. The town was 6 miles north.



the town





Most are lucky to have one hall of fame champion.



population 28





Probably including cats and dogs.



joe's shrine





Where else to document his football accomplishments than the side of an abondoned church?



Montana Day 2





random directions



After logging 150 miles on my first full day in Montana, the SP200 was ready for more. This little motorcycle could take me for what seemed like forever on a single tank of fuel. At a Miles City gas station, I spent less than $4 for the privilege of riding another 150 miles, at least. The fuel range came with a bit of sacrifice, however. This was a bike which cruised comfortably at 55 mph, if one's idea of comfort was a blast of unobstructed wind smashing against body and helmet. On the return trip from Ismay, I jumped on US 12 to save time, and 20 miles later found myself in a tucked position, nearly kissing the handlebars. The tiny headlight shell offered about an inch of wind protection, and I wanted it all.


Today's ride would have no goals or destinations. My college backpack was filled with the basic necessities I needed to explore for a day. Expecting no places to buy food or drink, I packed a lunch and a beverage. The fold-up gas station road map of Montana went in the pack, just in case I couldn't find my way back to Miles City on my wits alone. I had bought my first mobile phone the year before and threw it in, which later seemed pointless after I flipped it open and had no service anywhere outside of Miles City. I planned to use all of my fuel capacity today, and these items were all I would need.


I could not possibly retrace my random path on the motorcycle that day. A nearly infinite supply of dirt roads kept me riding in all directions, fascinated with new sights. I'd never seen cattle guards on public roads or hay bales the size of school buses. At times I followed the Powder River, shallow and wide and cloudy, snaking through this rough country from south to north. Mostly, I just rode.


The SP200, limited only by its 20 horsepower on a good day, made easy work of the dirt roads. The machine used a simple carbureted four-stroke engine and started up easily with a firm kick. Each day I would check air pressure in the tires, give the o-ring chain a tug, and do a quick walkaround to confirm that everything on the bike looked as it should. Then I fired up the engine and began exploring.


On this second day of riding in Montana, overcast skies replaced the deep blueness of yesterday. With average rainfall of 13 inches per year in these parts, I wasn't worried about being wet. The terrain was brown and jagged and seemingly unfit for animal agriculture, but there they were, sparse cattle munching on any suitable plant life.


The miles and hours passed far too quickly. I had only two days here before heading south to the Black Hills. Soon enough, I was back at the Motel 6, where I loaded the bike into my truck and headed towards another motel, location to be determined. Such were the days in 1997. My tastes in vacations would eventually change as I grew more involved in the social aspect of motorcycling. The following year I went solo again, this time to Wyoming with a different motorcycle. In future years, I would continue traveling west with motorcycles, and with friends. But the Miles City trip was always fresh in my mind, it's wide openness irresistible.


Nobody does dirt roads like Eastern Montana.



cattle everywhere





I had never seen cattle guards on public roads.



Just me and my ride





Hill country in Eastern Montana.



railroads and cattle guards





I had never seen cattle guards on railroad tracks.



trees in eastern montana





Not many, but they're there.



home on the range





Maybe there's a better way to see Montana, but I don't think so.



Couldn't get enough of those signs





Breakin' my mind.



The rest of the story





epilogue



After two days in Montana, I drove four hours southeast to the Black Hills region of South Dakota. Once again I explored mountain roads with the SP200. Above 4,000 feet, the little engine struggled. I'd planned to cover a few of the highest peaks, but the bike simply wouldn't have it. Then I remembered the restrictive airbox cover. Near a camping resort, I paused to remove the seat and find that cover. I chatted with a young couple out for a walk, explaining the situation while I yanked the airbox cover and threw it in the tool bag on the rear fender.


Like magic, the engine suddenly pepped up and carried me up the mountain peaks. IT WAS LOUD. I felt sorry for the vacationers forced to listen to the intake noise echoing across valleys. The SP200 was still mild compared to an average Sturgis-loving Harley, but those bikes didn't go anywhere near the camping areas next to the gravel roads leading me up and down the mountains.


After a stop at Flag Mountain Lookout, dark clouds floated above and raindrops fell. The intensity escalated quickly as I sprinted down the mountain. Within minutes, I felt like a target at a paintball range. I pulled under a massive pine tree and waited out the storm. Like most trees, this one kept out some precipitation for a few minutes, until the rain outlasted the leaves and I was just as wet as I would have been without planting myself under a huge lightening rod. Soaked all the way to my underwear, I finally decided to make a run for it. The rest of the day was spent drying out.


Those three long days of riding were joy at all levels. Only I really knew why a solo journey covering thousands of miles to nowhere made sense. I always preferred things off the beaten path, and my week of vacation in 1997 was just that.



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